Broadchurch – A Local Perspective

ITV’s latest murder mystery series ‘Broadchurch’ wrapped up last night. I’ve fallen a bit out of step with a lot of drama series that are around now, I seem to miss an awful lot of them. That’s good in a way because it means there are an awful lot of them! This is much better than a few years ago when it was wall-to-wall reality TV across all channels. Good too because I remember growing up in the ’80s and ’90s, ITV used to be the leader in British-made drama and it is great to see they are really putting in an effort to reclaim that crown.

West Bay

A local perspective? I live and grew up in the town ‘Broadchurch’ was filmed – or more accurately, in the adjacent town to where the seaside parts were filmed. I live in Bridport, just two miles or so from West Bay, the site of the beach, cliffs, harbour and more. In other words the good bits! The town scenes, the hotel, newspaper, church and residential part too, weren’t filmed anywhere near here. I think they were done in Clevedon, near Bristol. I’ve no idea why. It was a shame really, there are plenty of places around here they could’ve used.

We do get film crews now and again, Lyme Regis probably has had more, really though we aren’t used to a lot of attention. We’re on the border between TV regions so we rarely get any local news on our ‘local’ news bulletins. We’re used to be being ignored. ‘Broadchurch’ was pretty accurate in that regard!

The last time the spotlight was on us was for Nick Berry’s ‘Harbour Lights‘ series in 1999/2000 (though it looks like the production values for that were firmly stuck in 1990!), his project after leaving ‘Heartbeat’, which promised much in ratings and tourism and vastly under delivered at both. It generated a brief buzz then we plunged into obscurity again, the only legacy is a fish and chip hut now called Harbour Lights Fish Bar (it had a brief appearance in ‘Broadchurch’ under that name too, directly opposite the police station!). After that debacle I was amazed anyone here let film crews back in. It provides an interesting historical comparison though, as between the two shows a lot of development work happened at the pier and opposite it at what is now the filming location for Broadchurch Police Station.

West Bay East Cliff (P.Wotton, December 2011) (click for large)

‘That doesn’t go there!’

Once you get over the weirdness of seeing David Tennant, Olivia Colman and Pauline Quirke walking around a place you know well, you start picking holes in the geography (remember this was the first episode, too soon to have any relationship with the characters). Locations didn’t really match reality. In the opening scenes of episode one, Beth runs from a dual-carriageway into town all the way to the beach – yet the nearest such road is something like 4 or 5 miles away, and didn’t look like ‘our’ road.. I’m pretty sure I’ve seen it in Casualty! Obviously you can’t shut down the A35 to do some filming, it is a busy trunk road especially in summer, but still it seemed odd!
They’d also walk or run from a place in West Bay to a place in Clevedon within minutes. The magic of television! These are only little niggles a local would know about, and quite honestly once the real drama got going I completely forgot about the lay of the land, I just imagined it was a fictional location with a few familiar places! The show was so good you just forgot about it.

I liked the nod to Bridport & West Bay’s annual August torchlight procession, the writer is local so I assume that was deliberate. Every year the town comes together (well, those who can be bothered.. I’ve only done it once) to carry a lit torch – the firey kind not the flashlight kind – from Bridport to West Bay where it is thrown on a big bonfire by the beach literally yards from where it was in the show.

The local community really got behind ‘Broadchurch’, especially the local newspaper The Bridport News, lots of local hotels and restaurants, cafe’s and so forth. They’ve been holding screenings as the series has gone out and there have been Broadchurch Echo posters in the newsagents!

Visiting?

Maybe some tourists who saw the show might find it frustrating if they want to visit the sea then pop round the corner to visit the hotel or newspaper offices, and realise actually it is a little more difficult than that! So what is really here?

The harbour, cliffs, beach, newsagent and the scout hall (really the Methodist Church), all these really are in West Bay. So is the Police Station (Streetview) although you might be surprised to learn it is a block of posh flats, a cafe and a bicycle shop. Jack’s house is near the East Cliff.
Pauline Quirke’s character stayed in a caravan just a mile down the coast at Freshwater Caravan Park, Burton Bradstock. Be careful if you walk there, a lady died recently when the cliff subsided on to the beach. Anyway the clifftop walk between Burton and West Bay is nicer than the beach which is a bit too pebbly to walk on easily.
The yellow hut? That’s a mile in the other direction at Eype (Streetview) – again take the Coast Path unless you really like the sea. Even better: walk one way to get there, walk the other way to get back!

West Bay looked fantastic on TV, especially the golden cliffs and the inner harbour. Hopefully it’ll bring some grockles to fleece tourists to welcome.

What isn’t here? The characters’ houses, the main street with the newspaper offices and the hotel – though the inside of the hotel isn’t a set, it is the real Bull Hotel in the centre of Bridport. I can’t quite see why they didn’t use the outside of it but there you are.

If you squint you can see the yellow cabin over at Eype (P.Wotton, December 2011) (click for large)

Accents

A lot of the locals seemed to speak in Bristolian accents rather than Dorset. Obviously the town areas are filmed near Bristol, but writer is from here, the show mentions the town is in Dorset, I would’ve expected Dorset accents!

What About The Actual Show?

Truthfully, I had low expectations and wasn’t expecting to like it! I expected another Harbour Lights. I’m so pleased to be wrong, I really got caught up in this one and it kept you guessing. It was so well filmed and acted, properly good telly.

The guessing came up perhaps half an episode too short – I wasn’t the only one to figure out who did it before the final episode even began. The writer made a bit of a fuss about the number of clues in the dialogue and the music. Perhaps if he hadn’t said that I might not have twigged. I think maybe there were a few too many clues. On the other hand, it was so well shot and acted that it almost didn’t matter, and since it kept turning on you, you weren’t really sure until the reveal – what if it was a set up to make us think it was him? You still wanted to let it play out. That’s the mark of a good drama.

I enjoyed the examination of each character. Their flaws and histories. ‘Could it be them?’ Oh they have an alibi.. or so they say.

It was a standout cast as well. I really thought this was going to be a vehicle for David Tennant, and yes he did feature prominently and did a great job with a twist on the well-trodden clichéd detective, but by no means was he the only star of the show. Jodie Whitaker (Beth) especially in the earlier episodes dealing with the grief – the whole family was good but she was excellent. Joe Sims (Nige) was very good. The standout throughout was Olivia Colman (DI Miller) who was on top form as her character took from happy local police, hardening to a murder detective, and especially in the finale – she’s not just an award-winning comedy actress but great at properly serious drama too.

I didn’t really like Will Mellor’s character – no slight on him, it was refreshing to see him play something completely different after he seemed to get typecast as the ‘lad’-type – it was just that character didn’t seem to fit into place as well as the others.

The pacing was very good and the shooting, they shot the landscapes beautifully.

I liked how the two main cops didn’t like each other and for once in a TV show they never made up to become best buddies!

The last episode.. wow. You might’ve guessed whodunnit but that reaction.. that was so raw, so real.

Etc.

The soundtrack seemed more like one of the recent Nordic Noir crime dramas than a British show and it was all the better for it, perhaps you wouldn’t be surprised to learn it was composed by the Icelandic musician Ólafur Arnalds.

Second series? The last frame said, ‘Broadchurch Will Return’. How will that work? This isn’t like Wallander where they somehow got away with multiple murders in a small place, the focus there was on how it affected the detective. In Broadchurch the focus is on how it affected Broadchurch, the characters, the community, the town as a whole. You’d lose that effect if there was another murder so maybe it is a different kind of story? Or is it going to become a murder-per-series show? I wouldn’t be against that. I’d love to see a second series but I don’t see how they can do it justice.

If you missed any of the last few episodes they should still be on ITV Player. The whole series is available on iTunes right now, and so is the soundtrack. US viewers will see it appear on BBC America some time this year.

Well done ITV, well done to the writers and the cast, and everyone really!

Your Thoughts

I hope I haven’t spoiled things too much. If you’ve seen it tell me what you thought about it, and if you haven’t seen it, why not? Forget preconceptions and find it and watch it.

London 2012: Part 2 – Cardiff

In another late series of posts, I’m looking back at last year’s magnificent summer centred around the London 2012 Olympic & Paralympic Games.

Part 2 – Cardiff, Thursday, 26th July 2012

My first trip of the Olympic summer would be to Cardiff to meet two friends. We had tickets to see the very first event of the London 2012 Games: women’s football, GBR vs NZL at the Millennium Stadium. Other games would kick off an hour later. This was taking place two full days before the Opening Ceremony just because the normal Olympic window is a little too short to fit in both men’s and women’s tournaments, and you can’t go beyond the Closing Ceremony!

Our little group had an interesting dynamic:  1 English (me), 1 Welsh, and 1 New Zealander with a Welsh family history – Amy the Kiwi had spent years saving up to come over to see the Games, when the opening game was announced as GB v NZ to be held in Wales, it just had to be done. It was also among the cheaper and more available tickets so there was no excuse not to! Those who know me know I’m not a big fan of football, I watch the odd major competition but I thought this one would be different, it could mark the breakout of the women’s game into something bigger, and what’s more I can always say I was at the opening event of the London 2012 Games!

All that was to come in the afternoon – first we had some sightseeing time.

I took the train up, which was fairly painless but time-consuming as I’d chosen to take the cheapest ticket available (needed to pay for the Spanish holiday too!). I spent a bit of time on Britain’s rail network this summerso I may follow-up with a post about my findings.
Needless to say, travelling miles through cuttings and a tunnel isn’t as grandiose an entry to Wales as either of the Severn Bridges. But still, I arrived bang on time – and in a quirk of fate Amy’s train arrived at precisely the same minute so we met on the platform. We’d meet Luke shortly afterwards.

City

We had four or five hours to spare before the game. Amy went off sightseeing with a local relative, leaving Luke and I to wander around the city. He’s only up the road in Newport so this is all old hat for him but for me Cardiff was new – I’d been to big music events before but not really expored the centre of the city, it was a case of pub/restaurant then straight to the venue.

As it turns out it reminded me a lot of Exeter which I visit fairly often, a very similar style of place with green space and a big shopping area alongside a ridiculously old building – in Exeter you have a cathedral and in Cardiff you get a huge castle, the difference is the Welsh charge a lot to get into the castle.. so we didn’t bother.

I have to say I loved the sporty art piece outside the castle walls by the park!

Goal!!!

We also found City Hall, which was quite an impressive building, though I was much more excited about the giant Olympic rings in the grounds! Olympic fever was starting to build! Further around the city there were a lot of Olympic banners in the streets as well as a big screen, and some entertainers for the kids.

Olympic Rings outside Cardiff City Hall

The other difference is Exeter doesn’t have a colossal stadium rising over the city streets. Strangely though the city felt very quiet, like a normal weekday afternoon with everyone busy at work, or perhaps even quieter.

It was a gloriously hot sunny day, a bit too hot at times if I’m honest and easily comparable to some of the days I’d had in Spain, though nothing like the last two days there. It was still necessary to find cold drinks, then we met Amy and her cousin and wandered through the park to a nice pub, with even nicer cold beer and a good meal. Perfect.

Soon it was time to head to the stadium.

At The Stadium

When we approached the stadium we finally found all the people. We even saw members of the NZ Olympic Team on their way in to support their teammates!

They seemed to come from nowhere and were all heading for very long queues at all the entrances. We were warned about this, due to the extensive security checks access might take a while. And the checks were quite extensive as the list of banned items was long and actually quite unneccesary – no different to modern airport protocols with the limits on liquids in clear containers. Since I was taking a train to London that night to stay at a friend’s place it was annoying that I couldn’t just bring normal shower gel, toothpaste etc., I had to bring little travel packs.

Queues for security checks

It fooled us into thinking the stadium would be packed, as it turned out it was only a quarter full and the security checks had kept everyone waiting. The crowd size was disappointing compared to the capacity of the stadium. I know women’s football doesn’t have the profile in this country but then neither do a lot of other sports, and in reality a 20,000 – 30,000 crowd was already very respectable for the women’s game in this country. It just looked empty in a 90,000-seater stadium.
Later we’d discover this was only part of a trend – the preliminary rounds of several sports failed to sell out. Once the tournament got to the later stages ticket sales improved such that at the final of the women’s game, Wembley Stadium was completely filled!

Once we sat down we discovered something brilliant – we had amazing seats! This despite going for the middle of the price range. Row 9, halfway between a goal and the halfway line.

Teams lining up for the Anthems as seen from our fantastically close seats

Our view:

 

I’ve never attended a football match before but it was very clear this game attracted a different crowd to the stereotypical boisterous lager louts chanting insults at the players and officials. I’m sure not all games are like that but this game was far more family friendly. Lots of kids in attendance and lots of women. It also struck me as being more ‘middle class’ than you might expect. There were plenty of knowledgeable folk there but it still felt a bit like the Fast Show sketch with the guy not having any idea. ‘Is that good?’ Maybe that was just me.

Love these seats

The chanting was also amusingly half-hearted, a quiet ‘Gee B (clap clap clap) Gee B (clap clap clap) Gee B’ mumbled around the stadium. Almost like everyone was looking round asking.. ‘is that right? Is that what we do?’ Despite being united under the UK we’ve had over 150 years of playing ball sports as separate nations of England, Scotland, Wales, NI.. now people were trying to work out how to chant for Great Britain and I found it quite funny that people seemed not to know how. It also sounded like they completely stole it from the NZ fans (and actual NZ Olympic team) who’d been cheering ‘Kiwi, Kiwi, Kiwi’ in the same tones but more enthusiastically. Anyway the GB fans got louder as the game progressed especially when we took the lead.

The game itself was good, they were closely matched teams. GB put a lot of pressure on NZ who held off the attacks well and made a few of their own. Goalless at half-time, GB eventually took the lead from a free-kick to score the only goal of the game – the scoreline not really reflecting the game. While there were moments of calm it wasn’t just a case of kicking from one end to the other, both teams were taking shots.

On the whole it was a good advert for the women’s game which had long been thought of as a second- or third-rate amateur sport in this country, perhaps rightly in the past but unfairly for the past few years perhaps, and that’s strange for a football-obsessed UK. Nowadays the standards are far higher than before and I’ve definitely seen several lower quality matches in the men’s game.
This is a double-edged sword for me, because although this equality in sports is long overdue it will lead to even more football on our screens and there’s plenty of it already!

It was interesting on another level too because I realised how fast and fit a football player actually has to be, you don’t really appreciate that when watching on TV.

Crowd celebrating a GB win!

Both teams did a lap of honour which was good to see.

Second Game

There was another reason to go to Cardiff – the first rounds of the women’s competition featured two games per day and our second game was Brazil vs Cameroon! A classic World Cup match-up in the men’s game, surely it promised much for the ladies too.

This game was immediately more alive than the earlier one, more attacking and flowing particularly from the Brazilians as you might expect. The fans were much noisier too, drums and everything!

  

A single Brazilian running rings around Cameroon

The Brazilians were actually dominant and were 3-up by half time, going on to win 5-0. Much like the men’s team even when they’re ahead they’re a pleasure to watch, seemingly doing things the other team(s) haven’t even thought of.

Alas, we had to leave during the second half. We had a train to catch to get to London (Amy and I) and First Great Western in their infinite wisdom elected not to run extra trains late into the evening to cover the event. We either had to run the risk of getting the last train along with everyone else in the stadium and it being too full, or we leave an hour earlier and miss some of this game, which is what we did.
Disappointed, I was regretting it all the way to the station when we met a long, long line of people.. suddenly it looked like a great idea! We weren’t even sure we’d get on this train there were so many. Eventually we crammed on to a train, standing room only until some 45 minutes later, not at all comfortable wearing a bag I had no room to remove.

On the whole an excellent day, despite the issues with transport and the worries I might get bored at real life football, I didn’t and I have no regrets at all.

The next day, Friday, would be for meeting friends in the evening. Before that, it was all about taking the opportunity to enjoy the experience of being in London during the Games, and seeing the Torch! That’s in Part 3.

***

This is part 2 of my series on the London 2012 Olympic & Paralympic Games.

Other parts:

• Part 1 – London 2012 Olympics – Weymouth Preparing
• Part 3 – London 2012 Olympics – Torch Relay & London Atmosphere
• Part 4 – London 2012 Olympics – Hyde Park Triathlon
• Part 5 – London 2012 Paralympics – ExCel Arena
• Part 6 – London 2012 Paralympics – Olympic Stadium
• Part 7 – London 2012 Paralympics – Alex Zanardi at Brands Hatch
• Photo Albums:  Olympic / Paralympic

***

London 2012: Part 1 – Weymouth Preparing

In another late series of posts, I’m looking back at last year’s magnificent summer centred around the London 2012 Olympic & Paralympic Games.

No Big Tickets? No Problem

The London 2012 ticket lottery was famously overwhelmed, it left me out of luck for the Olympics so it left me in a quandry.

Q – What do you do if you didn’t get tickets for the main events in London?

A – Go to London anyway to soak up the atmosphere, get some of the more plentiful football tickets at the nearest stadium, apply for Paralympics tickets, have a look at the closest venue, watch as much as possible on TV.

These became my goals for enjoying London 2012.

I managed to secure tickets to the football, among applications for something like 10 events it was the only thing I won, albeit in Cardiff not London and before the Opening Ceremony even took place! At least I’d see something. There were also plenty of free events and – result! – I got lucky with the Paralympics draw so I had those to look forward to in September. That was a little way off yet.

Handily LOCOG had decided to hold the sailing events well away from London so they were just barely 20 miles away from me, in Weymouth and Portland. I’m not in the slightest bit interested in sailing but it would be wrong not to at least check it out so I decided to take a look before things ramped up to see how preparations were getting along. I thought I might return during the Games to watch the big screens on the beach. As it turned out I didn’t do this, which I regret, as those same big screens were also showing Games events held elsewhere. In addition to the big screens, there would be a ticketed area which would set me back £50 just to sit on a hill watching faraway boats. At that price it didn’t appeal, I’ll leave that for fans of the sport who can understand what they’re watching.

Tuesday, 24th July 2012

Olympic Week. Four days before the Opening Ceremony took place, and two days before I would take myself off to Cardiff to see the football. I went for a drive and a walk around Weymouth after work.

I got there and went straight to the front. It was a glorious evening and a great time to get some fresh sea air! I wasn’t sure what I was expecting, I knew there’d be Olympic decoration yet it was still weird seeing such a familiar local landmark with London 2012 banners along the full length of the promenade, along the fence and at regular intervals.

 

The stage was being set up, and sports areas appearing on the beach.

Local kids had made some boats to welcome the world… and maybe pirates too.

I also had a little wander around the inner harbour. I chose not to go to Portland, I’ve been over the causeway before and to be honest I don’t think I would’ve have seen anything too Olympic. The island would be closed off anyway to all but competitors and residents, and this trip was all about a recce in case I wanted to come along to the beach.

I also saw my first Olympic directions sign! Excitement for sign geeks.

Just a little taster then, just enough to get a little more excited about the weeks ahead. Even the traffic signs were smiling already.

***

This is part 1 from my delayed series of posts on London 2012. Four posts highlighting women’s football, and the atmosphere and free events around the London 2012 Games in the Capital itself, and three posts about attending the Paralympic Games.

Other parts:

• Part 2 – London 2012 Olympics – Women’s Football in Cardiff
• Part 3 – London 2012 Olympics – Torch Relay & London Atmosphere
• Part 4 – London 2012 Olympics – Hyde Park Triathlon
• Part 5 – London 2012 Paralympics – ExCel Arena
• Part 6 – London 2012 Paralympics – Olympic Stadium
• Part 7 – London 2012 Paralympics – Alex Zanardi at Brands Hatch
• Photo Albums:  Olympic / Paralympic

***

Vigo Holiday 2012: Day 6 & Recommendations

Tuesday, 17th July 2012

I took the opportunity to have one final walk around near the hotel, the park and the marina. Come Midday it was time to check out. My flight wasn’t until 4pm so there was no hurry but I was carrying two heavy bags including a lot of Kerryn’s stuff there was no sense staying, and I don’t like taking chances with airports, especially after taking one on the way to Heathrow (which turned out fine), I didn’t want to risk it twice. When I got there the computers were down, which meant a lot of waiting then a very rushed check-in, which in turn meant my planned relaxed lunch became a quickly-scoffed sandwich.

The flight was good, just as good as the one coming in although instead of feeling excited about the week ahead I had that strange mix of melancholy and satisfaction you get from a good holiday. Glad to be rested, happy to have had such a great 5 days, but strange to think I wouldn’t see Kerryn & Dave for 9-10 months, not to mention the thought of having a 3-hour drive home after the flight and then back to work the next day.

A top tip if you’re flying into Heathrow:  The approach often brings you in from the East, heading West directly over the city. I make a point of taking a window seat on the right side of the plane, making sure to sit away from the wings, hoping they fly this route so I can watch the city passing 3000 feet below (eventually… after sitting in a holding pattern over Kent for ages), and especially on this journey ten days before the Opening Ceremony I wanted to see the Olympic Stadium in its final preparations. Unfortunately this time there was so much cloud I couldn’t see a thing. Those are the breaks sometimes!

When you get accustomed to a different place, which takes a day or two, landing back in the UK can be a bit jarring.  Thankfully the new passport face-recognition booths were flawless and I was through immigration in next to no time. I don’t know what the fuss in the papers is all about. The whole process from landing to reaching my car was faultless for me.

Then as soon as I got into arrivals I saw all the Olympic paraphernalia! There was a Media Zone with cameras for arriving athletes, Olympic direction signage, pink and purple-clad helpers offering assistance, and even a Swedish female pole vaulter complete with a pole in a box. Thoughts immediately turned to the month ahead – exciting!

Recommendations

If you fly to Vigo or anywhere in Spain I highly recommend Vueling, the seats are so comfortable and you get a nice amount of legroom!

If you stay in Vigo I insist you stay at the Hotel Compostela because the people there are so friendly, and they speak English too. The rooms are a good size and the bed is really comfortable. You can sea the ria from the window and you are close to the city centre and the marina with the boat trips (and I mean 5 minutes walk to each). If you find it too loud at night with the street cleaning I’m sure they’d oblige a move to the quieter rooms at the back. I used Booking.com.

The wider area of Galicia is definitely a place you should spend the time to explore – although like a lot of places it only really shines when the sun comes out!

Further Travels

Later in the summer I would go on to visit the Olympics and Paralympics which I will be writing about here soon, do come back for that.

Kerryn and Dave were embarking on a far greater adventure. They were going to spend the next 9 months backpacking around South America! As I write this it is nearing the end of January, they’ve been there since September and plan to stay until June. They have a blog of their own – I encourage you to go back to the start and read through it!

[Previous parts: Day 1; Day 2; Day 3; Day 4; Day 5; ]

[ For more photos from my Vigo trip please click here ]

Vigo Holiday 2012: Day 5 – Cangas & Bouzas

[Previous parts: Day 1; Day 2; Day 3; Day 4;]

Monday, 16th July 2012 – Back On The Water

Today was my last full day in Vigo and I had the morning and early afternoon to myself. Kerryn & Dave unfortunately both had to work. After such an enjoyable day on Sunday I really fancied another boat and beach day rather than spend it walking, and it just so happened that this day  was easily the hottest of my entire visit. Even the small whisps of cloud present yesterday had decided enough was enough.

Next to the boat for the Cies is another service running to the opposite shore of the ria, to the small town of Cangas. It is a much shorter journey, maybe 20 minutes or less, and very is cheap. This worked well because I had agreed to meet up with Dave in the centre of Vigo after he finished work before we went to meet Kerryn, so a short journey back to Vigo would be useful.

It felt like a very relaxing boat trip, it didn’t seem as hurried as the other one, just a nice easy cruise across the river in the sun. Just what I wanted.

On the boat to Cangas

Cangas

As the boat approached Cangas it became obvious it is, in places, much more colourful than some of the other places I’ve been. Of course, on a hot sunny day like this, the blues of the sea and the sky were amazing!

 

Looking from Cangas marina to the beach – my destination

I didn’t know anything about Cangas except that it had a marina and a beach and my plan was to go and lie on the beach for a while, so that is exactly what I did. I thought if time allowed and I felt like exploring I would take a look around. The most I explored was to walk the seafront from the marina and a few hundred yards along the beach, where there were fewer people.

I was surprised just how many people there were.

 

Cangas beach – I walked past the buildings in the middle of the photo, fewer people!

 

I took off my shoes to walk on the beach and the sand was too hot to walk on!

This would be my view for more than two hours.

 

I hadn’t applied enough suncream yesterday so my ankles were already burning red, I had to keep them covered on this beach. I can never seem to tan the back of my arms and legs so I lay down for ages. I forgot how uncomfortably hard sand can be. For a while I tried to read the photography book Kerryn lent me but that wasn’t comfortable. Instead I shut my eyes and dozed for a while and just sat and watched the sea, the boats and the people. Properly relaxing stuff.

Eventually I realised it was time to go if I was to get the 4pm boat, I think it was, to be back in Vigo to meet Dave.

I was all too aware this could be my last time on a hot sunny beach for a while so I enjoyed a slow walk along the beach, shoes off for a while even though it hurt (I only got halfway before they went back on again!). The sun really was very hot for what I’m used to and I’d used up all my drink, once I was away from the beach I’d regretted not getting something from the seller there as there was nothing for sale on the kilometre walk to the marina.

People think midday is the hottest part of the day but it isn’t, that’s when the sun is strongest so you’re at risk of burning, and there’s a difference. The heat continues to build until the sun begins to set so the hottest part of the day is often between 3 and 4pm.
It was something like 3.30pm when I packed up my things and I was aiming for the 4pm boat. I’d intended to speed up walking once I was back on the sea wall but in this heat that wasn’t going to happen, it felt like it took twice as long to get back as it took to get out there. I could finally understand why the Spanish like to lazily amble along the streets! It meant I missed my boat by ten minutes, I had an open return ticket and boats are every half hour, but it meant making Dave wait which was a bit annoying.

I took the opportunity to sit in the shaded air-con of the marina’s cafe for a Coke on ice. It was probably the best one I’ve ever had.

Back To Vigo

The boat trip back was uneventful, I was both sad to leave the beach and also happy to be moving in the wind again, and looking forward to meeting the others. Perhaps a little tired from the sun already, and the realisation hitting me that the holiday was almost over and I wouldn’t see my sister until, well, who knows when?

Off the boat I rushed up to the centre of Vigo (I told you it looks better in the sun) where Dave had been patiently waiting. We caught the bus to Bouzas, the place holding the fiesta with last night’s fireworks. It just so happened that Kerryn was working there that day and there was a fair/carnival going on as part of the fiesta.

Unfortunately the bus was rammed full of sweaty people and once again we had a driver who thought he was Fernando Alonso, which would be fun if we were sat down strapped in but not stood up, with few handholds, compressed in among a lot of people. Thankfully it was only 10-15 minutes away.

Bouzas

It was quiet when we arrived, I guess it was still siesta time. Lots of street bars were set up in a square and loud music was playing. As it turned out Kerryn was a little delayed leaving so we stopped at one of the bars in the shade for another cold Coke. It would normally have been beer but I think after that bus we both agreed it needed to be a soft drink!

Kerryn arrived and we wandered around the old parts of the village, mostly deserted old streets with a few people milling around. Suddenly we turned a corner and there was a little bay complete with a little beach, right there alongside the town.

 

If you follow it around to the right, as we did, you walk along the opposite bank which leads to a footpath to the main ria where you have fantastic views over the islands and all the passing boats. The path sits between the water and a massive car park used to store vehicles made at the local Peugeot-Citroen factory before they are shipped out, don’t let that you put you off because it is worth the walk, you won’t be looking in that direction anyway!

 

Brilliant views.

When you turn the next corner you reach a line of sculptures of marine life! And a little mini lighthouse.

 

The weird thing about the path is it stops here. You have to turn around and walk all the way back! I think it must’ve been put in to get people to exercise, the views and statues give people a reason to come out here and they get fit along the way, which is a good idea.

As we got back to the centre of Bouzas I was overheating terribly, we really ought to have brought some water with us, and I got a bit tired and irritable after being in direct sun for so many hours that day. Thankfully as we wandered around we found something to drink and I felt better again. I’d be no good in a desert.

We found the fairground, set up in the streets, was just coming to life. I loved the Simpsons and Spongebob kids play areas! Enough to make you want to be 5 again. Instead we played a game of darts and all that practice on Friday clearly helped, I’m usually terrible at these games and swear they are rigged somehow, but not this time – this time I won! They were nice people too, Kerryn and Dave were chatting away to them in Spanish for a while. I had no idea what was going on. I had my pick of prizes and took home a Spanish flag as a memento of my holiday, and of course I had to pose with it with my namesake.

After wandering around for a while longer and wondering whether to play more games it was decided a break was in order. We’d actually planned to have some ice cream the other day in Vigo but never got around to it, so why not go now? So we did. they had huge range to choose from – we each chose two flavours and it was bloody good, as was the cold drink. No photos.. too busy eating!

As the place was next door to the hotel that was a good chance to stop for a shower and a change.

Evening

Kerryn and Dave (though I think mainly Dave) put together a nice meal at their place which we ate on their balcony, which was really good. We took a load of their stuff to my hotel, which needed to come home during their upcoming travels.

Afterwards we went for a walk to the marina. The cruise ship terminal and surrounding area had been redeveloped and now there’s a modern bar on the 1st floor. We went there for ‘goodbye’ drinks. There are amazing views of the ria from the balcony as again the sun was setting. Look at the light of the sky behind Kerryn.

The bar balcony overlooking the ria after sunset

We asked the people at the next table to take a photo of the three of us but we all had difficulty with the light, and they had difficulty operating our cameras! We had to laugh though, if you go there when a ship is docked you wouldn’t be able to see anything! We were lucky – the very next day a ship had docked in that exact place.

And so it came to an end.

We said our slightly-teary goodbyes outside the hotel, I wished them well on their travels and that was where the holiday ended, for tomorrow I was to fly home.

[ Read the Final Part including my recommendations ]

[ For more photos from my trip please click here ]

Vigo Holiday 2012: Day 4 – Islas Cies

[Previous parts: Day 1; Day 2; Day 3;]

Sunday, 15th July 2012

If you’ve read my previous posts you’ll know the three of us, and definitely two of us, were drinking until beyond the small hours. You won’t be surprised to learn of a fragile head or two when we awoke on Sunday! Nonetheless we had a plan for another day trip and we were all determined not to waste the time lying about feeling sorry for ourselves, I didn’t come all this way to sit in bed, so I had to force myself up and out.

We met up to rejuvenate ourselves with coffee, orange juice, some food and to get some water to take with us. It just so happened we went to the marina to the same place I went for breakfast on Friday, except this time I had the benefit of translators which resulted in a nicer brekkie! To be honest after that I didn’t feel too bad, just tired from a lack of sleep. Sunday was another bright sunny day, and noticeably warmer than Saturday had been – we were definitely going to need that water.

All At Sea

Looking across Vigo from the boat to the Cies

Today’s day trip a visit to Islas Cies, a small group of islands acting as a natural barrier at the entrance of the bay (or rias). It is a nature reserve, only open to tourism for two summer months every year, and I was disappointed to miss the chance to go when I was last here in April 2010. Now it was July and I had the chance to go! After a couple of busy evenings, a relaxed and sunny beach day would be just what the doctor ordered.

I make no apologies for this being more of a photoblog than the others and I think when you’ve seen our destination you will agree!

Glorious clear blue both above and below.

The journey takes about half an hour, maybe it was 40 minutes, and the boat runs at a fair clip. Out on the water it was a lot cooler which was very much welcome, at times a little too cool! We sat outside to enjoy the sun, the views, and to take some photos of the coast of the ria.

 

The Islands!

Arriving at the Islands

The boat slowed and drifted into a small bay, with white sand and as we approached we could see, yes, clear blue water. The beach wasn’t too busy away from the dock and nearby shop/cafe. Perfect.

Welcome to the Cies!

 

Unbelievable.

Rather than laze on the beach, which is kind of what I wanted to do, unusual for me but I was hot and yes hungover, we started walking along a trail through the trees. I had mixed feelings because I’d waited so many weeks for the sun I didn’t want to be out of it, yet it was hot enough I was thankful for the shade! It was a nice walk and the path was well-maintained so it wasn’t difficult, being a national park has certain benefits, and it wasn’t an enclosed space either – it was open and light and airy. It winds its way uphill and we took a fork to the left to climb further. We stopped part-way for some lunch. Along the way there were tantalising glimpses of the blue.

 

Great Views

Our destination was the highest point on the Northernmost island where we could look out on the next island along. We could’ve walked to the high point on the other island (these two islands are connected by causeways) but it would’ve taken an hour longer, I was told, and we preferred take it a little easier and give ourselves some beach time.

We were looking out over the opposite side of the island to where we arrived, so we were now on the Atlantic side and you could definitely see the difference in the choppiness of the water even from this vantage point.

You might recognise the view from my blog header!

Looking over at the other islands as the Atlantic crashes against the rocks. Part of the beach is in the distance on the left.

Up here there were some cool-looking formations in the rock too, where puddles and running water had eroded it away.

 

 

Tremendous views.

To The Beach

We ambled back down to the beach, where the sand and sun were hot and the air was a cool gentle breeze – just how I like it. You get the benefit of the heat yet the breeze stops you from overheating.
We found a spot with a few people but not too busy, well away from the main crowd but not so far as to be isolated. People bring their own motorboats and sailboats over from the mainland and they moor up along this beach.

Here’s the view left, centre and right (click to enlarge):

 

Yes, I could use some of this.

One of the UK newspapers rated this as one of the greatest beaches in the world and it is hard to disagree. We must’ve stayed there for two or three hours, sleeping or dozing for most of it, with a bit of food and pesky seagulls looking to steal it. A great way to recharge. Mind you it was good job I’d brought the Factor 20 and the Factor 50 sun creams!

As the afternoon drew towards evening and we began to feel the chill of the wind, it was still sunny but the heat was fading, we collected our things and made our way to the boat for the return to Vigo. We had plans for later.

If you ever get the chance to go to these islands you should definitely take that chance. They’re only open in July & August (or is it June & July?) although I think you can take a private boat over at other times.

Leaving the Islas Cies, hopefully not for the last time.

Sunset & Fireworks

After a stop at the hotel for a shower and a change it was out again. In the very first photo on this page you can see a tree-covered hill. It didn’t show the full extent of it. Tonight we were climbing this hill. It climbs very steeply and we went fairly quickly so I was a bit out of breath by the top! Why rush? To get there in time for this:

Fantastic.

We weren’t quite at the top and it was lighter than it looked in this photo. Once we got to the old fort on the top of the hill we found ourselves a spot on the wall.

At this time of year all the towns and villages along the ria hold their annual fiestas, and they try to outdo each other with firework displays. Tonight it was the turn of Bouzas, an adjacent town-turned-dockland which Vigo is rapidly subsuming into itself. Kerryn told me that in the town itself between rounds of fireworks they break to tell a story and the whole thing is in four chapters, but it gets so full of people it isn’t fun, so why not go to the top of the hill which central Vigo has surrounded and watch from there? By the way, check out the view of the Cies islands from here.

Of course, this being the last night of the weekend we had to bring along a little something.

Cheers!

Then as the sun’s light really faded, and truth be told it did get a little chillier than I’d expected, the fireworks began!

 

And so ended another brilliant day in Galicia!

[ Read on in Part 5 ]

[ For more photos from my trip please click here ]

Vigo Holiday 2012: Day 3 – Santiago de Compostela

[Previous parts: Day 1; Day 2;]

Saturday, 14th July 2012 – The Weekend Starts Here

The sun! The sun is out!

It had good timing too, as we’d planned a day out for Saturday:  Take the train to Santiago de Compostela, about 90 minutes away, to spend the day wandering the old city.

After getting to bed after 3am it was a slightly delayed, slightly hungover but mostly tired group of 3 who met up again at something like midday. It might’ve been slightly later, I can’t remember, in fact I’ve no idea if we even did anything before getting to the station. Maybe we met at the flat for a cup of tea. Fair to say I was a bit slow that morning. I’m sure Kerryn & Dave walked far too quickly for what was about a kilometre of walking, if not a mile.

Anyway, we had a nice brunch at the station. I remember feeling much better after that. I remember the chocolate doughnut, that was more solid and less ‘fluffy’ than a UK doughnut which was nice.

The station had moved, it was a surprise to see the old one demolished when I passed it on the bus on Thursday. The new one is a modern prefab building in a different place, an awful concrete and glass structure but it has a nice airy cafe on the inside with a nice selection of things. It was funny because while we were there the TV was showing the news and suddenly London popped up. “The Olympics are less than 3 weeks away will they be ready? Will there be more riots? Here are some random Londoners – are you excited?” It was quite funny seeing it reported in another language and that people outside the UK were making a fuss about it too, not just us and our media!

The Train

Just after lunch we boarded the train, it was already after 1pm by then but that was fine. No hurry. I was on holiday and the Spanish stay up late. It was comfortable too, it had air-con (as you’d expect in a hot country) and there were reclining seats and power sockets.

It was clear I wasn’t the only tired, hungover one! A lazy day on a train was a good idea. It took about 90 minutes to get to Santiago and we spent the time staring at the scenery, talking a little, playing with cameras and reading a book on photography that Kerryn had brought. Fair to say, once you got used to the differences compared to home and moved away from the fantastic-looking bay, the inland scenery was a bit repetitive but every now and then a real gem would appear, like this one at Pontevedra.

On the other hand, some of the small towns and villages we passed were looking very run-down, quiet and tatty and there were a couple of road projects which had just been abandoned mid-construction.

Santiago de Compostela

After 90 minutes we arrived fairly well rested and emerged into the warm sunshine. Despite Vigo being the largest city and A Coruna growing quickly, Santiago de Compostela remains the capital of the region of Galicia. When you leave the station you immediately walk uphill through typical modern Spanish streets, then suddenly you cross a road and you’re in amongst historic old buildings just like the ones in Vigo, but lots more of them. It was clear Santiago’s old town was on another scale. We took our time wandering around and Kerryn bought a local cake we all shared – almonds!

 

Turn a corner and suddenly there’s courtyard and a tower.

 

That’s nothing though. Just around from there is the main square and which houses the front of the same building, which is the Cathedral, and it is HUGE.

 

Also in the square facing the cathedral is the home of the regional government of Galicia, and between them sitting opposite us is a hotel I think.

The Cathedral is the destination of the Camino de Santiago (The Way of St. James), which was a Catholic pilgrimage originating in the 9th Century. Originally you would start at your own home and walk all the way to Santiago! Nowadays it is as much a tourist journey as a religious one, so it is open to anyone wanting to complete the challenge for their own reasons. It featured in the Martin Sheen and Emilio Estevez film, ‘The Way’.
The more famous of the routes is the one leading from the Pyrenees over 1000 km away! Today there are a number of starting points along the route so you can take the journey for any distance you like. Kerryn & Dave walked it from one of these intermediary points a few months prior, staying in hostels along the way, and I think they did it for about 3 weeks?

There were several groups of people in walking gear with their backpacks, lots of them were school groups, as well as the usual tourists. Wandering among them were people in costume.. spot the guy in brown.

We ambled around and played with our cameras.

 

 

Just around the corner, down some steps we stopped for a cold Coke at a cafe. Sitting outside but slightly in the shade to get some respite from the sun. It was fantastic to feel the sun’s heat all day but you needed a break and rehydration. As we were there this guy with a guitar was in the opposite corner singing songs in Spanish, then all of a sudden we realised he was singing in English.. he was doing The Beatles. Eventually he comes over with his hat asking for money, he seemed quite well-presented for a busker but we were happy to give him some as he was very good. Kerryn & Dave talked to him in Spanish, he turned out to be a really nice guy and he said he wished he was from Liverpool just like his heroes The Beatles! Then he stood near us, dedicated a song to us and played Strawberry Fields Forever, before finishing up and walking away with a smile.

We walked around for another hour or two, heading around the little back streets to explore. Somewhere we heard some loud music so went to have a look – and there was a fashion show happening in another square! We moved on, it was a bit loud.

We sat at another cafe for a late lunch. A panini and a beer I think it was. Just as we’d ordered, our friend showed up! He played a few songs and worked the rest of the tables. He said hi to us and left us be.

After a look along some of the shopping streets in the old town, but being mostly broke on having spent the money to get here (and with other things coming up), I didn’t buy anything. I regret not buying more local cake.

A great day in Santiago. Relaxing, with enough walking to do you good.

On the train ride back the light was fantastic, I took a few photos:

 

Back In Vigo

It didn’t end there. We were hungry, not hugely so but still wanted to have some dinner. We were at a bit of a loss for where to go once we were back we walked around looking for somewhere. I wanted to have something Spanish as I wasn’t sure if I’d get another chance.

Tapas! A few plates of cheese and other things. And lots of red wine. Since the Galicians are proud of their local signature dish I was recommended that, I don’t normally like octopus or mushroom but I tried it and the sauce they use is amazing, it was lovely! Alas, it appeared on a huge plate and I was the only meat-eater present, we ought to have asked for a 1-person size. Nonetheless I did my best and cleared a good half of it! If you’re ever in Galicia ask for ‘Puplo a Galega’ or ‘Polbo a feira’.

The net result of this was that I ate waayy too much. I think the others did too.

Next stop:  to meet some friends of Kerryn & Dave in a pub in the old town. A stein of beer was had. Nibbles were had. The thing to note here is that in parts of Spain when they serve you alcohol they always leave you little plate of nibbles, could be olives or nuts or whatever. In Galicia they are quite generous with them. When there are nibbles in front of me I will have them, doesn’t matter if I’m not hungry. Can’t help it.

So anyway at 3am the place closed and chucked us out, some of the group went home including Kerryn. Dave, myself and two other blokes found ourselves in another bar with a glass of Jameson’s. A full one, no mixer apart from ice, for 4 Euros. [How do they make a profit?]

I got back to the hotel at 5am.

The man on the desk said in English with a knowing smile, ‘good morrrning!’. I just shook my head and said ‘whiiiskey’ as I got into the lift.

Octopus, wine, beer and a lot of Jameson’s. No wonder I was ill overnight.

[ Read on in Part 4 ]

[ For more photos from my trip please click here ]

Vigo Holiday 2012: Day 2 – Explore. Darts. Bowling.

[Previous parts: Day 1;]

Friday, 13th July 2012

The Rain in Spain

I’d flown to Vigo to escape the dreary British rain, and guess what? My first full day in Vigo was wet too! Just a grey day with odd showers so not like home, but not the sun either. My visit of 2010 had featured rain almost every day as well, apart from a glorious day in Baiona. I know Galicia has a wet climate, bordering both the Atlantic and the Bay of Biscay, but this was July! Still, I was on holiday, best make the most of it.

Unlike last visit when I stayed with Kerryn at her old place near the beach, this time I was in a nice little hotel in town. It was really comfortable, and I’ll write more on the hotel in a future post, but overnight I discovered the Spanish authorities, and maybe it is just in Vigo, like to do their rubbish collections at 2am and wash the streets with a jet wash while they’re at it. Despite tiredness from the journey I didn’t get to sleep until gone 3am.

After a nice holiday lie-in I took myself and my camera off for a walk to reacquaint myself with the centre of town. The first order of business – breakfast.

I’d been told about a little cafe in the modern tourist information block around the corner so I went there, the staff were friendly but we couldn’t understand each other, though at least they understood about 20 words of English which is more than I know of Spanish or Galician. I pointed at things and got what I wanted: a coffee, a croissant and a drink to carry around with me later. I sat and watched the rain on the windows and read the tourist information leaflets Kerryn had given me.

Exploring

I was familiar with the city centre from my last visit, I went for a walk then as well although much of that day was taken up with walking from the beachside to the main city. I wanted to see if anything had changed and also wanted to go further along to see what was there. Being based in the city centre gave me the luxury of taking my time.

Here are some photos from my walk!

As the hotel and the cafe were by the marina it made sense to start there, and among all the normal modern little sailing boats and motorboats was this gem:

And then it was off around town. The photo top left is a covered row of restaurants with ladies outside offering samples of oysters. I didn’t fancy trying one, I’ve never had them before and you can’t get away with not liking them when you’re on your own!

 

My sister lived in a flat next to a little side-street in the old town where old women sit and weave baskets, just around the corner from the church (picture on the right). Little side-streets like this are great for adding character to a place.

 

From there I wandered down the hill to the Praza de Compostela, the park just next to my hotel.

 

I went up to the Porto do Sol, which is the gateway between the old town and the modern shopping streets. Unfortunately it looks like a craphole in the rain, it looks much nicer when the sun is out! You have to see the statue of a merman. Then I just wandered around for a while, exploring.

 

 

 

I walked around for a good two hours. I didn’t really stop. Kerryn & Dave were only working a half day so I made my way over to their place in the centre of the old town. I’d ended up a fair distance away having lost track of time and by the time I got there they were already home. They made a nice lunch and a much-needed cup of tea – even abroad there are some things you just can’t go without! We stayed there chatting for a while, watching the rain, deciding where to go. We elected to go bowling.

In fact we spent more time playing this electronic darts game which were were all hopeless at playing, especially after a few drinks, because it was far too much fun! The plastic darts kept falling out of the plastic board so the automated scoring didn’t catch our score, and we didn’t really have any idea how to work the thing but we got there in the end! We had one go at bowling and we were even worse at that than the darts, so we went back again! None of us are usually that bad at bowling. We blamed the lanes and the balls. It couldn’t possibly be us. We went back to throwing darts and nearly hitting small children. The bar was selling the local Galician beer in glasses of half a pint, maybe smaller, for one euro per glass. It’s a fair bit stronger than UK beer..

 

Then after dropping my camera at the hotel we went for pizza. [Note I'm writing this seven months after the fact and we did drink a bit, I'm not completely sure this was pizza night! Anyway on one of the nights we had a really lovely pizza in a place in the old part of town.] After dinner we went off to a couple of other bars.

The first was a strange place with loud music, not that many people, and strange decor. The second was much nicer despite being full, El Gato Negro, The Black Cat. It had a nice atmosphere and lots of 60s, 70s and 80s scifi-esque toys and posters all over the walls. I think we drank beers and Jägermeister (first time I’d tried it, aniseed/liquorice – ugh). Again it wasn’t rapid drinking like you do in the UK, it was more relaxed than that.. which meant you could drink for longer and later not that we could often get near the bar. We bumped into many of Kerryn & Dave’s Vigo friends, it was they that bought the Jäger. It got late, as Spanish nights do. I think I got to the hotel at 3am, or was it 4?

[ Read on in Part 3 ]

[ For more photos from my trip please click here ]